Warsaw is an exciting mix of sophistication and scruffiness. It has a distinctively cosmopolitan air about it, and is extremely clean to boot. Its various squares are filled with people of all nationalities: Japanese, Chinese, Australian, American, western European. Kasia ends up having to enter our destination into the car’s satellite navigation system, and she’s pleased with how easy it is to do, along with the fact that the screen is so large. We leave the business district and the rejuvenated old town, and head towards Ulica Burakowska 5/7 in our GLA. The street is located in an upmarket area of the city, characterised by tidy gardens and parks. Jaga Hupało, 50, has run her salon here for the last 17 years.