In the valley of the giants.
Imagine you are driving a car but with the aim of saving your own life. Because you are being chased: by a relentless avalanche, a moving mountain. While you are fleeing from this monster, at the same time you are trying to stay as close to it as possible so it does not overtake you and swallow you. This is how Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara describes the passion of his life: big wave surfing. A “giant wave” can be up to 40 metres high. These giants present surfers with completely different challenges than simple wave-riding. The reason is that they are very steep – and very, very fast.
If you want to master them, you need more than just stamina and physical fitness: you need the right attitude too. And above all: the right board.